The construction, slow rise, and quick fall of the Alhambra in Granada, Spain reflects grandiose illusions and delusions of its Moorish creators. What is left today, more than 700 years after its creation, is closer to the intended “paradise on Earth” than the last refuge of dying dynasty it became in its final days. I was recently invited by Turismo Ciudad de Granada to discover the Alhambra, which loosely means “red fortress” in Arabic.
The Alhambra in Granada isn’t simply one thing or site within Spain’s 17th largest city but rather a city all itself. Many travelers here make the mistake thinking you can drop by the Alhambra for an hour or two, look around, and have seen everything 3 times. A visit to the Alhambra is easily a 4 hour event, one that requires buying tickets in advance (online or arriving before 8am the same day) for either the morning or afternoon sessions.
The Alhambra was constructed in (mostly) unrelated segments over 400 years but its initial purpose was defensive. Sitting along one of the highest hills in Granada, its 10 meter thick walls proved a formidable obstacle for Spanish armies for over 800 years. Both due to the city’s location and fortification, Granada was the last city to be under Arab rule in Spain.
Much like god Zeus of Greek mythology fell from power due to his negligence of Earth from Mount Olympus, in the late 13th century Granada – and the Alhambra specifically – was all that remained of the empire that once spanned half of modern Spain. Though rather than fortifying it further, ruler Mohammad I ibn Nasir decided to build one of the most lavish palaces the world had ever seen.
Meanwhile Granada itself collapsed into civil war as Nasir’s political compromises to the Spanish (basically giving up Sevilla to hold Granada) angered various factions under his control. Although it was hell outside, the royals inside the Alhambra blissfully saw only heaven.
The Alhambra turned out to be the very last piece of Arab territory in Spain when Granada was easily reconquered by the Spanish in 1492. Widely seen as a Christian victory balancing the loss of Constantinople 39 years prior, the Alhambra was left to slowly decay and be forgotten until the 1940s.
Since recovered from neglect, the French, and earthquakes to follow, in 1984 the Alhambra was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
In a sense what caused the end of the narcissistic Nasir dynasty helped to preserve it in the modern day; for it was the work done in the last quarter of the Alhambra’s construction that makes it so popular now. Creating paradise on Earth while the walls of doom fell upon the last rulers of the Alhambra may have been a stroke of wisdom in the face of inevitable defeat or one last act of complacency. Yet in loosing what they had in the present, the Alhambra’s final rulers left their legacy to the future we’re in to enjoy today.
Stunning shots mate. And your right its not a quick and out visit thats for sure. The place is huge and really is worth your time to go slow and enjoy it. Just don’t go on a hot day as the places to escape the heat are way to few and far between
Thank you 🙂
I saw many people who wanted to just swing by in the afternoon without getting tickets, or who had only planned an hour or so there. (Lots of people I met missed it altogether which is even a bigger shame I think.) I was lucky though, temperatures in the low 20s – must be an oven in the summer months.
My husband was just there and told me how beautiful it was, but I have to say your photos are better than his (don’t tell!). He said all the detail was really just incredible, and it definitely looks like it.
haha I won’t say anything 😉
Beautiful pictures Anil. Granada is still on my list of places to visit an these photos have definitely inspired me!
Thank you Andrea, it’s a wonderful city and glad to hear it’s in your plans 🙂
Gorgeous pics… I’ll be stopping in Grenada next year, I’ll have to check this out!
I definitely wouldn’t miss it and the Nasrid Palaces are worth the added entry fee.
Wow – wonderful photos. I went there a few years ago…this makes me want to go back.
Thanks Elizabeth!
I can’t believe you waited so long to start doing photography on your site! Great stuff!
Thank you Sherry – it’s something I’m really feeling a renewed passion for, inspired by great photographers like yourself!
hi,
agree with everybody, really nice pictures! I heard of it before I didn’t imagine is so big; definitely I want to visit it 🙂
Even the walk into the Alhambra (if you choose not to take the bus up to the ticket booth) is a good 10 minutes. I think this picture helps show the scale of the walls:
You might be able to see the tiny people in there!
Stunning photos mate. Love your work 🙂
Thank you very much!
Anil, the photos are absolutely gorgeous! What camera are you using?
Thank you Barbara. I’m using a Panasonic Lumix DMC-ZS10.
Wonderful photos, Anil, and a great historical summary of Granada’s Alhambra.
I agree with you: one should leave an afternoon, preferably an entire day, to visit this grand palace, and to explore all of its nooks and crannies. I’d also recommend a night tour, as the palace feels even more mysterious, almost “larger” at night with just the partial illumination from artificial lights.
Thanks again for your post!
Lovely suggestion as even just seeing the Alhambra lit up at night, watching over the city gives it a magical quality 🙂
Great pics!
I was in line at 7am, until the “secret” line opened at 8am – same day access to most of Alhambra’s sights.
Better to be early than late…well, at least at the Alhambra!
Don’t know how I missed these from your newsletter! I’m heading to Granada for the eighth time on Saturday. What an amazing place!
Have a wonderful time!
These photos made me go “Wow!” over and over again. You’ve truly captured the beauty of the Alhambra. The fifth picture with the view through the windows especially make me want to visit.
Thank you very much Erica. It was one great view after another and glad I could capture just a small piece of it.
the pictures are breathe taking!! and i basically just love spain 😀
Thanks Mina and I couldn’t agree more – I love Spain too!
Now I know why the song for guitar “Recuerdos de la Alhambra” is so beautiful, those are some amazing pictures Anil.
Thanks for sharing these mate.
Sergio
I appreciate that Sergio, but I had a wonderful subject that made my job very easy!
You seem to have a peculiar notion of the history of muslim domination in Spain. The moors conquered and dominated ALL of Spain and not half of it, there were a few small territories that resisted their onslaught. The conquest of Seville antedates the conquest of Granada by two and a half centuries and there is no way that giving up Seville could have protected Granada. The presence of the moors in Spain was doomed after the battle of Las Navas in 1212. It would have been of interest to note that Napoleonic troops tried to blow up the Alhambra , much like the Turks with the Parthenon.
Yes, the photographs are nice.
True for the Moors; but not the Nasrid dynasty specifically. At their height they only controlled about 60% of the Iberian peninsula and for much of their reign “control” is a term that could be loosely applied from what I understand. Also true that giving up Seville didn’t save Granada in the end, only extended a losing cause. I can dig up the books I read and would be interested in any sources you could recommend.
And thankfully the Alhambra survived the attempts at blowing it up so we can enjoy it today 🙂
Great photos! The Alhambra is one of the most amazing sites in Spain and was a highlight of our trip. I’d love to visit again, the beauty and history are astounding. It just breathes history…
It’s beautiful and quite surprising, even if you’re prepared for it, no?
Estupendas fotografias de La Alhambra , haber cuando realizas otro torneo que salga Granada
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