Bulgaria is a country that’s culturally startling, from backward nodding to cuisine that seems to encompass the entire culinary map from Lebanon to Germany. Almost a constant barrage of “you think you know this but you don’t” even when it comes to something as innate to human beings as smiling. That is, something Bulgarians don’t do a lot of, at least not initially or without good reason.

It’s not to say Bulgarians aren’t a friendly bunch – most people around the world are – but getting the edge of their mouths to curve upward, even just a little, is a small challenge.

You’ll See A Smile When You Deserve It

Modern Bulgarians are the descendants of many Eurasian peoples, but most can trace part of their roots back to Central Asia. That’s a part of the world known for producing particularly tough smilers – the Chinese, Kazakhs, and Turks – a traditionally straight-faced bunch. Perhaps that’s an adaptation that comes from thousands of lean nomadic years with the likes of Alexander the Great, Genghis Khan, and other empire overlords repeatedly washing over the landscape. Not knowing friend or foe immediately, making smiles reserved for those moments only deserved and people familiar.

Smiles aren’t used to diffuse tensions as they are in the United States or parts of southeast Asia. And there’s nothing remotely awkward about someone starring blankly in your face as you tell them the funniest thing you’ve ever heard – at least in Bulgaria. You just roll over those dead moments without the hint of a grin; making for very emotionally efficient exchanges.

All Or Nothing

That removal of the gap-filling-half-grin found in many other parts of the world leaves you in between straight stares and massive smiles. There isn’t a middle ground and most Bulgarians will tell you they don’t smile unless they have a good reason to. I tend to go against the grain in smile-heavy places (like Egypt, for example) but there are some situations where a smile is the perfect way to say things like, “thanks for the rakia” or “hi, I’m not a mugger”.

One night in Sofia, I was beyond lost and desperately needing directions (something that happens to me often). I went up to someone who looked trustworthy, and older lady. When she caught me walking in her direction she did everything to avoid me, and in the process of trying to catch up I nearly scared the wits out of her. A stupid smile on face and map in hand, she began giving me directions in broken English. We proceeded to have a conversation about Bulgaria’s communist days and her family history. All of this without a single smile until she invited me over to eat – and gave me the warmest (mostly) toothless smile I’ve ever received.

Although I didn’t take her up on the offer – I was still trying to find where I was going – it was a smile I truly felt I had earned. Invaluable insight into the psyche of a nation that has had its share of historical disappointments.

History In A Grin

Optimism isn’t the easiest outlook to acquire when you’ve gone from ruling two powerful empires to becoming a part of others, liberating yourself and then finding the Nazis rolling through. Some 70 years after World War II, the Balkan Wars before that, and now 22 years after the fall of communism, Bulgarians have seen major power shifts in and out of their favor over the centuries.

You can see the pragmatism that comes as a result on their faces; or when they flatly say “that’s not funny” to a corny joke. (Which I found incredibly humorous ironically enough.) The beauty of Bulgarian smiles – and those around the world – are how deep and fluid they show us culture can be. Although the act of smiling is inborn in humans, its meaning is not.

[top photo by: zoomar (smiley faces)]

I’m convinced that Bulgaria is a travel victim of its own name. One that harks of stoic faces and cold wars; a country sandwiched in between some of the world’s tourism heavyweights. The experiences travelers report from Bulgaria are equally polarizing, from fantastic to utterly disappointed; a blinding contrast few countries can contend with.

I fall into the camp that absolutely adored Bulgaria, a country so close to my own that I completely disregarded it; putting it well at the bottom of a very long travel list. As chance and travel conference would have it, I ended up in Bulgaria this March; completely caught off guard by what I didn’t know and what probably keeps most people from visiting Europe’s 15th largest country.

For More Than 700 Years, Bulgaria Was Nearly Twice Its Current Size

Present-day Bulgaria is well known for being conquered by armies as diverse as the Ottomans and Romans, however between 632 A.D. and roughly 1420, the first and second Bulgarian Empires were a regional power in the Balkans. From modern Greece to Ukraine, Bulgaria has been a cultural sponge on both sides of conquest.

Bulgaria like one giant Euro-Asian blender, something which you’ll immediately see in all of the faces walking around the country. As diverse as the rest of its culture, Bulgaria is both familiar and distinct no matter what your travel focus is.

Bulgarians Play The Bagpipe

Although most commonly associated with Scotland, the bagpipe has its origins in the Middle East; something I had no clue about until the familiar high-pitched tones pierced my ears one night over a Bulgarian dinner. Known as the ‘gaida’ in Bulgarian, it’s an integral part of the local folk music; albeit one that’s completely unexpected.

Bulgaria Has The 2nd Most Mineral Springs In Europe

Only Iceland has more mineral springs than Bulgaria, whose capital city has 7 separate ones alone. The Sofia Public Mineral Baths are located in the middle of the city where you’ll find (mostly) homeless people filling up and drinking from the free spring water available at the front of the building. If that’s not enough springs for you, go to Velingrad 130 kilometers (~80 miles) south of Sofia – there are 90 there alone.

Bulgaria Isn’t On The Euro

Despite being a European Union member as of 2007, Bulgaria is still using the Lev as its currency. It is rather inexpensive to eat and drink (especially that) in Bulgaria and hostel dorm rates float around $10-20 a night in Sofia. (Privates around $30 a day; I highly recommend the Art Hostel in Sofia if you’re looking.) Bulgaria is expected to switch to the Euro at the beginning of 2013 so don’t miss a good deal while it’s there.

Bulgarians Nod Backwards

Even once you learn about it, you still might initially think every Bulgarian waiter is obnoxious — simply because they nod their heads side to side to mean ‘yes’. The nod for ‘no’ is the complete opposite, up and down; which is all very confusing no matter how many times you’re expecting it. The reverse nodding is one of the most difficult cultural idiosyncrasies I’ve had to assimilate. I guess some form of up and down head shake means ‘yes’ to me, no matter how many times I tried to train myself otherwise.

Love, Hate, Or Indifferent – Chances Are You’ll Be Surprised

Whether it’s the variety of foods you can’t quite put your finger on, the bright colors of Martenitsa, or the fact that there is a giant mountain hanging right outside of Sofia, Bulgaria is a compact country that’s disproportionately full of surprises. An tempting 8 hour bus ride from Istanbul or 6 hours to Bucharest, it’s often the places that don’t initially pique our interest that end up being the most interesting.