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8 Georgian Foods You Won’t Find In Atlanta

As I mentioned last week, one of the factors working against the country Georgia is its name – which can be rather confusing if you happen to live close to a large American state with an identical name. Many of you may be thinking of fried food, Coca-Cola, and other (questionably digestible) nourishment but I’d like to introduce you to the cuisine of the Caucus country Georgia.

There is a Balkan and Persian influence in what I was expecting to be a rather bland Russian mix of potatoes and meat; making my stomach joyfully surprised and hopefully do the same for your hungry eyes.

1. Nigvziani Badrijani – (Fried eggplant with mashed walnuts and pomegranate)

nigvziani badrijani

This quickly became one of my favorite foods in Georgia and easily anywhere else in the world. It is high up on my personal list along with Chile’s porotos granados, Ecuador’s version of ceviche, and Bulgarian sarma.

2. Khachapuri – (Cheese bread; nearly countless varieties)

khachapuri

Khachapuri is undoubtedly a Georgian staple food, so much so that the Tbilisi State University has invented a ‘khachapuri economic index‘. In the mornings this soft, slightly greasy dough is sold as sandwiches filled with chunks of salami. Other varieties eaten at meals are usually stuffed with ground beef or spinach and generally sold in a circular pie-shape. (Stuffed with beans khachapuri becomes lobiani.)

3. Kuchmachi – (Mixed chicken gizzards, heart, liver, walnuts cooked in a clay bowl)

chicken haslet

Admittedly, this was an accidental order on my part as I had no idea what I was pointing at on the menu. Usually that absolutely illogical methodology works in my favor; but in this case it didn’t. Gizzards, heart, are good when cooked but, well, there’s never been a liver in my mouth I’ve been fond of.

4. Satatsuri – (Asparagus soup)

satatsuri

Not an accident and quite the opposite this time. Satatsuri wasn’t the most common soup I found eating out but when it comes to liquid dishes, it is one of the most popular you’ll find in Georgian homes throughout the year.

5. Eggplant Satsivi – (Eggplant, sometimes chicken, in walnut sauce)

chicken satsivi

Before arriving in Georgia, my relationship with walnuts was a cordial, but not overly friendly one. I ate them because of their health benefits, mostly believing they were limited in their tasty ways. But let me tell you that Georgians know how to turn walnuts, eggplant, and some spices into one of the best cold appetizers I’ve ever had. In fact, thinking it may be a while before I have any satsivi again depresses my taste buds more than a little bit.

6. Lobio – (Kidney bean soup; eaten hot or cold)

georgian lobio

There are supposedly walnuts in this hearty and common Georgian dish yet I couldn’t taste any. The flavor of garlic though is often quite strong and tempered with white bread (or mtchadi; a type of cornbread) to add some bulk to lobio, which is typically watery.

7. Georgian Salad – (Tomatoes, cucumber, onions, parsley)

georgian salad

A very common salad you’ll find throughout eastern Europe (like Turkey’s coban salatasi) the Georgian variety of this classic has a few differences. First off, it has much less olive oil, salt, and pepper; with the main ingredients largely – not finely – chopped.

8. Kharcho – (Beef stew)

kharcho

There was a lot more tomato-based liquid in this common Georgian stew before I decided to pick at it, my hunger blinding me to any thoughts resembling “take a picture of this!”. Kharcho is hearty and with only hints of the spices and herbs that make up its recipe (e.g. cilantro).

This Is Just A Taste Of A Varied Cultural Menu

Part of me is still surprised to think that Georgian food isn’t all meat and potatoes. While there is certainly a lot of red meat in many of the dishes, several come in vegetarian varieties like “ispanakhi” (spinach mixed with, you guessed it, pureed walnuts). Back to meat however, kebabs (qababi) are found throughout the country in cities large and small. And no matter what dish you’re enjoying in Georgia, it’s usually washed down with some form of alcohol – from the (excellent) regional red wines or the local beer, Natakhtari.

How To Prevent, Track, And Recover Lost Luggage

mr happy tshirt

Considering how inept most airlines are it’s something of a small miracle whenever you’re greeted by your luggage at baggage claim. My grim feelings on the airlines aside, I do check my bag (keeping my electronics separately with me) and aside from the occasional delay, have always gotten them back. Using a general 3-step process however, there are some measures you can take to reduce your luggage’s chances of being one of the 42 million each year to be delayed or go missing.

You should prepare yourself to minimize the chance of a loss, take matters into your digital hands, and have your case in order when you need the airlines to pay up for their mishap. Fortunately there isn’t much to it aside from a few good clicks, clock hand ticks, and learning to deal with airline…personnel.

Notifying The Airlines

We’re going to work a bit backwards through the process of a lost bag so you can see the importance of certain steps you should have taken along the way. The first is obviously to report your bags missing as soon as you realize they are. First thing’s first, be sure to ask the staff immediately around the luggage carousels to confirm your bags weren’t offloaded to some near pickup point in baggage claim. (Especially important if you had some delay getting off the plane or at passport control.)

cell photo of bags

  • Save Yourself Time By Having A Photo Of Your Bags – Verbal descriptions of luggage tend to sound eerily similar; plus you can shorten your time in lost-and-found lines but simply having a snap of your bags on your smartphone or digital camera.

You also want to be sure to take a photo of the inside of your bag, making sure to get each layer of everything you packed. These photos will be useful when making a claim so you can value your belongings in case your bags never do show up.

  • Have Photos Of Your Most Expensive Items – Although I strongly don’t recommend packing an iPad into check luggage (they get stolen) any high-ticket items should clearly be in your bag photos for reimbursement purposes.

Remember, when dealing with airline staff, take a few pages out of The Art Of War and bring them over to your side against the company. Pay compliments at the right time, be stern yet slightly angry, and avoid getting confrontational as it will most likely work against you.

rack of sunglassesTrack Your Bags Like James Bond

In case your bags do disappear for a while you can take matters into your own hands to try and track your belongings. The most rudimentary way is to use an I-TRAK, which are baggage tags with unique codes embedded on them. These codes can be entered by any honest person online via the I-TRAK website, which will then email, text, or call you in the event your bags are recovered.

  • Put That Old Smartphone To Use – Chances are you’ve upgraded your phone somewhat recently or have an old iPod Touch laying around; in both cases you can re-purpose those ancient digital artifacts as free tracking devices. Install Project Prey (free) on one, then store it in a secure pocket somewhere hidden in your bag. If your bags go missing or stolen, you may be able to track them using the Project Prey software and not be too broken-hearted if the tracking device of your choosing itself happens to go missing.

There are also real-time GPS tracking devices like the Telespial TrackStick ($149) which can be carefully deposited into your bags when the airlines can’t seem to pin down a location on them.

Reduce Loss Risk Factors In The First Place

After calling around to several major airlines, many seemed to agree on these points when it comes to getting your bags to their destination. First of all, try to avoid checking in your bags at the last possible minute (it’s tough I know, I do it all the time) and avoid checking in your bags very early before a long layover (more than 5 hours). Rather, use airport lockers or simply keep your bags with you when feasible; and be sure to confirm luggage tags are placed securely around sturdy handles.

The airlines also advised never to leave the check-in counter without a baggage tag slip as tracking without one becomes much more difficult and be sure to notify staff whenever you’ve got extremely tight connections on your route. Often they’ll be able to place an ‘URGENT’ or ‘priority’ tag on your bags so handlers know they’re in a rush.

Is A Granada Card Worth The Cost?

granada cardSeveral cities around the world, particularly in western Europe, have discount tourist cards that give you access to several of the major local sites for a flat fee. Often they’re a balance between savings and time – that is, you get admission to a number of interesting places but limited time to take advantage of them all. It’s those practical considerations that make or break a discount card.

So today let’s take a look at the Granada Card, specifically the 3-day pass, which Turismo Ciudad de Granada was kind enough to provide me during my visit to Granada, Spain last fall.

What Is A Granada Card And What Does It Get You?

As I mentioned above, basically the Granada Card (there are 3 and 5-day varieties) allows you access to Granada’s major touristic sites, including the popular Alhambra. The 3-day card costs 25 Euros and the 5-day is 30 Euros. They both get you into the same sites: the aforementioned Alhambra, Granada Cathedral, Royal Chapel, Monastery of Cartuja, Monastery of San Jeronimo and Science Park Museum.

alhambra granada spain

The primary difference between the 3 and 5-day cards, aside from 5 Euros, is that the 5-day card gets you 9 free rides on the city bus network and the 3-day card only 5. (I should also mention those of you traveling with kids can get either card for your children for 9 Euros.)

granada church interiorBreaking Down The Costs – Granada Card vs. Purchasing Tickets Individually

Let’s first begin by looking at the costs of a Granada Card to see if it makes sense for your budget in the first place to buy one. Assuming you intend on visiting all of the sites it allows you in, here’s a breakdown of the individual costs:

  • Alhambra: 14 Euros
  • Science Park Museum: 6 Euros (2.5 Euro for Planetarium entry)
  • Monastery of Cartuja: 4 Euros
  • Granada Cathedral: 4 Euros
  • Royal Chapel: 4 Euros
  • Monastery of San Jeronimo: 4 Euros
  • Total: 36 Euros (vs. 25 Euros for the 3-day Granada Card)

This of course doesn’t include the bus fares that come complimentary with the card (a single ride is around 1.25 Euro) and the added perk of being able to skip to the head of most lines.

Are Visiting That Many Sites Practical?

In case you don’t have 96 hours in Granada, I would organize the sites in this order: Alhambra (one day), Science Park Museum, Monastery of Cartuja (same day), and Granada Cathedral, Royal Chapel, and Monastery of San Jeronimo (all same day). It can be done I know because I did so, despite my habit of tardiness and fondness of consuming alcohol with my Spanish friends. The only site that absolutely requires you to be on time (and early) is the Alhambra. I met many travelers at my hostel who missed out on a visit because they neglected to get there on time.

It’s an easy mistake to make as southern Spaniards are hardly the most punctual people on the planet but consider the Alhambra an exception to the rule. (When meeting people in Spain, generously pad about 30 minutes to any agreed upon rendezvous time. And the same if you’re ever meeting me anywhere.)

How To Get A Granada Card

granada city hall

There are a few ways and locations where you can get a Granada Card. The easiest way is to swing by the Granada City Hall in Plaza del Carmen (pictured above – here’s a map) the day before you plan to start using it. (Say hi to them from me while you’re there.) You can also pick one up upon entry into the Alhambra or the Science Park Museum.

One Of The Few Practical Buy-One-Get Many Cards In Europe

You may be wondering why I’m writing about the Granada Card, whether I was paid to do so, or if getting one free influenced my take on things. The answer is it’s one of the few cards in Europe that saves you money and can be practically used within the time allotted. Oh, and no I wasn’t paid and no, money isn’t one of the substances that influences my writing. (There are plenty others I’ll leave to your imagination.)

The short truth is, many of these cards like the Dublin Pass, require you to visit countless sights from morning until evening so you’re doing nothing but. The Granada Card is a nice blend of price and pace; quite appropriate for this region of Spain.

Why Aren’t More People Visiting (The Country) Georgia?

Tbilisi at dusk

Many people around the world may not have heard of Georgia, the tiny republic sitting along the Caucus Mountain range, which many considered to be Europe’s eastern boundary in Central Asia. Many more have never considered it a travel destination, in fact of the 1.8 million visitors Georgia saw in 2011, less than 25% weren’t from bordering countries. I spent some time this past April in Georgia, flying to Tbilisi from Istanbul (a 2.5 hour direct and inexpensive flight I might add) and the entire time I was there couldn’t stop asking myself – why aren’t more people visiting?

Few countries and peoples have endeared themselves to me (and my wallet) as quickly as I experienced in Georgia. But while the country’s government has worked to increase tourism (most visibly with it’s easy entry rules for most nationalities) several things may currently be working against it. A big part due to a garbled media message for this gem in the Caucasus that won’t be hidden for long.

Where Is Georgia? (The One Without The Atlanta In It)

Georgia is a small country, about the size of South Carolina, bordered by Russia, Azerbaijan, Armenia, and Turkey. Over the centuries it has had a close but often heated relationship with Russia and seen conquest by the Arabs, Persians, and Ottomans. (Something very evident both in Georgia’s artwork and cuisine.) Being at the crossroads of so many cultures and armies, similar to India, Georgia has absorbed and incorporated what it couldn’t repel militarily. That makes a visit to Georgia a rich cultural experience but difficult to refine into a narrow tourism message.


View Georgia in a larger map

Add on top of that arguably Georgia’s most famous national; Joseph Stalin, who was born in the city of Gori in 1878. A museum, statue, and shrine of the home he grew up in is in the town square. Or more like, is the town square.

tbilisi sunriseInternational Flights Tend To Land At Terrible Hours

Landing in a new city you’re not familiar with at 3 in the morning as a traveler can be intimidating. It’s a time when you’re vulnerable to scams, fatigue, and heightened anxiety due to your awareness of both. It’s one of the disadvantages of not being a country that built some of the first airports (i.e. United States and much of Western Europe) or being a major connection hub.

In Tbilisi, where the overwhelming majority of international travelers will land first, there is a train-metro station into the city; which unfortunately only runs until about 10pm. Most hostels, like Old Town Hostel I stayed at, do offer shuttle service for around 40 Lari (~$24 USD) which could end up being cheaper than negotiating one of the taxis around that hour. You may also have to book an extra night wherever you’re staying for a 5am arrival; one of 4 things non-planners should prepare for.

Naming Conventions And Confusion

You might be thinking that “Georgians” call themselves something similar in their language – no – they use the term “Kartvelebi”. So while every other person here does seem to be named George, or some variation of it, the translation of the country name is a rather odd one in English. (One of the many examples of such country and city confusion.) It is thought that “Georgia” was used by early European explorers because of their observation of the locals’ reverence for a particular Saint George. In any event, it’s not because of Britain’s King George II, whom the US state Georgia is named after.

georgian flag

Either way, for many in the Americas, the Cola-Cola factory, deep-fried anything, and CNN probably come to mind before nigvziani badrijani. Naming conventions can make promotion – and even writing blog post titles – difficult, cumbersome, and less-distinguishable. Just imagine if Azerbaijan were named New York or Greece, Virginia.

The War Of The Roses In Russian Roulette

Americans may remember then-President George W. Bush’s visit to Georgia’s capital city, Tbilisi in 2005. During a public speech between Bush and Georgian President Mikheil Saakashvili, Vladimir Arutyunian threw a live grenade at the two; the explosive failing to detonate due to a malfunction. (Talk about luck for everyone within a 30 meter fatality radius.) Still, if this event made you think that Georgian’s are anti-American, it’s quite far from the truth. The Bush Administration was instrumental in negotiations between opposition parties after widely-disputed elections in 2003 and a strong supporter of the Rose Revolution shortly after.

Much like you’ll find in northern Iraq, Bush is quite popular in Georgia; even the highway from the airport into the heart of Tbilisi is named after him.

Then there is the Russian invasion and subsequent occupation of northern Georgia in 2008 where the fighting reached as far south as Gori. It is difficult to undo bad press, especially when there is so little of it from Georgia in the western media.

My Guess On Why Not, Coming Up Countless Reasons: Why You Should Visit Georgia

While these issues may be working against Georgia’s tourism efforts, I don’t believe they will be for long. In the coming weeks I’ll be writing more about why you should consider visiting this Caucasus nation and the advantages of doing so, especially soon. After than, you’ll likely be asking yourself the same question I am – why aren’t more people visiting Georgia – and hopefully be happy you weren’t one who missed out.

6 Travel Myths Blasted By Facts

anil foxnomad shotgun

There are so many myths about travel, the topic could nearly be considered folklore. Yet the most prevalent misconceptions are those that are ironically contradicted by the most facts. These are some of the most frequent misconceptions about going from one place to another.

1. Americans Don’t Travel As Much As The Rest Of The World

american flag jfk airport

According to the market research organization GfK Austria, Germans are one of the most internationally traveled people in the world. Approximately 65% have been outside of their borders at least once. Yet, only 20% have ever left continental Europe. Compare this to the United States, approximately the same size as continental Europe. Only 20% of Americans have ever traveled internationally, but roughly 65% have traveled once domestically for leisure purposes. Well what about Australians, whose country is about 80% the size of the US? They have about a 20% international travel rate as well. There is a strong correlation between average passport thickness and how close the nearest international border is to you.

2. Traveling Is Dangerous

There is a growing amount of evidence that suggests the more vacations you take, the longer you will live. We are also living in the safest time in human history. Consider that trips we take for often granted today, like a trip across the Atlantic Ocean, are 9,000 times safer than they were just 100 years ago.

3. Traveling Is Always Expensive

There are so many ways to save money on travel – the two general rules being – things get more expensive the faster you travel and the less flexible your time is. Plane tickets cost more if you have to fly on a certain date and when you have less time to see things you end up paying more to compensate. You can however turn the Internet into a powerful tool against the airlines, use multi-city flights, or stop chasing cheap tickets all together to save.

4. You Need To Print Out A Boarding Pass Before Going To The Airport

inside vancouver airport

Printing boarding passes – or paper really – is so 2003. I don’t travel with a printer in my backpack (ouch!) but simply by showing my passport at the check-in desk or self-check in I’ve never had any problems. Remember, you’ve already booked your flight and the airlines have you on record. Unless the airport (for security a few require ticket confirmations) or airline specifically says you can’t fly without one, don’t bother. Most airlines now support mobile boarding passes or online check-in (then print your tickets at either the airline’s kiosks or check-in counter).

5. Reading About A Place Or Seeing It On TV Is The Same As Going There

Livraria Lello bookstore porto portugal

Cognitive studies show that we are mentally bound within a philosophical framework about the world around us and unconsciously we attempt to categorize the rest of the world within our own framework. Those perceptions we hold tend not to change unless there is a psychological change within ourselves. This psychological framework is based on our personal experiences – so while watching is seeing, seeing is truly believing.

6. Your Chance Of Dying In A Plane Crash Is 1 In 11 Million

rio casino las vegas

That figure, typically cited, is based on risk for the average American – but most people aren’t “average” Americans (or Americans for that matter). Also, 80% of plane crashes occur during take-off or landing (recall “plus three, minus eight“) so it’s not how far you fly but how often, that determines your particular risk. For frequent flyers those odds boil down to about 1 in 20,000. But since I’ve just scared the hell out of you, allow me to reinsert hell back into you. For perspective, consider that your rough lifetime chance of getting struck by lightening is 1 in 10,000. Lastly, 76.6% of people involved in plane crashes survive and there are 7 more ways to increase your odds.

Keep Your Facts Updated

Science is anything but static – which is really the beauty of its methodology. Some facts change more quickly than others so be prepared to keep mesofacts from screwing up your next vacation. You can start by updating 8 things you probably got wrong about the Great Pyramids in Egypt and these cultural facts you didn’t know Bulgaria will surprise you with.

The Second Law Of Travel Thermodynamics

austin texas state capitol building inside

Traveling invariably changes you and a key ingredient to how profoundly is our invisible companion time. Of all the dimensions we exist in, time is the only one whose direction we have no control over. You can go left, right, up, or down but time cannot be stopped, just be sped up or slowed down. We often don’t notice this passenger who changes us as much as the road does; yet never leaves our side.

According to the second law of thermodynamics, events in the universe act in a way that make everything irreversible. You cannot drink the same cup of tea twice, physically grow young, or turn an omelet into an egg. You cannot travel the world and return home the same person you were before. Traveling extensively changes you extensively. Those effects vary both by where you go on the map and how far you go traveling along the arrow of time.

puppet show tbilisi ticketsSeeing The Shifts And Rifts Between Your Space And Time

My life is unorthodox to say the least. I have often have moments where I temporarily forget which city or country I am in. It’s in those lapses that I realize both how much I move and how extraordinary my life has become. For the most part my clocks are calculated by where I am and where I’m going next. Time ticks away steadily but often slowly as I’m incredibly fortunate to have many new, amazing, and memorable experiences. A taste, a touch, a smile I’ve never seen before. The occasional nod backwards that’s as compelling as it is confusing.

When I arrive places to visit friends and family I know my physical path usually has been radically different than theirs since I’ve seen them last. That’s easy to see on the map but the hands of time are much harder to observe. At least until you temporarily stop temporally.

The Slow Motion Button Of Travel And Life’s Fast Forward

Many RTW travelers and even those of you heading back from shorter trips have probably noticed the proverb, “the more things change, the more they stay the same,” firsthand upon arrival home. While traveling you feel like everyday is shorter – sometimes too short – and the more you do the less time it feels you have. It’s hard to imagine you’re experiencing the same 24 hours you did at home when walking along the medina walls of Marrakesh or exploring Chandni Chowk in New Delhi. Though of course, it’s not time that’s changing but your perception of it. And the longer you’re away the more amplified that effect becomes; so what was once abnormal becomes routine. Your clock is continually running slow.

When you return home, it’s you that feels somewhat out of place. It has been said that “home is wherever you happen to be” and when that becomes the road more often than not, I can tell you it’s easy to be confused with which is what.

tbilisi metro stationA Temporal Anomaly Along The Road

I’ve found this time-disconnect to be most profound in my conversations with old friends. In many ways their lives have marched on and mine blissfully feels to have been stuck when our paths last diverged. Once we’re past nostalgic reminisces it takes time to find a conversational common ground. (Especially on my part not to sound like an elitist bastard talking about one incredible experience after another.)

Through those processes though I’ve realized that we’re all experiencing entropy in different ways. Perhaps travel makes it much more apparent; you can always go home, but you can’t go back in time. Your understanding of the world, its peoples, cultures, motivations, and the rest is forever altered. Hell, even what you consider to be a home changes once you see that people live in countless types of dwellings and family structures around Earth.

So after months or years of travel you may be able to change how you physically move, where you go, and where you end up; but never go back to the beginning of any trip. And if you’re as fortunate as I am to take a long journey of any sort, you won’t want to return.

About Anil Polat

foxnomad aboutHi, I'm Anil. foXnoMad is where I combine travel and tech to help you travel smarter. I'm on a journey to every country in the world and you're invited to join the adventure! Read More

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