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Why Religious Tolerance The Malay Way (Surprisingly) Works

by Anil Polat | Jun 4, 2013 | Culture | 6

malaysian hindu temple

Increasingly there is a sense by many in the world that certain groups of people and various religions must inherently hate each other, advocating separation to avoid hostility…most of whom likely haven’t experienced traveling in Malaysia. Despite being far from perfection, the majority of Malaysia’s varied population exists with awareness but without focus on the different groups all around them. According to the Pew Research Center in 2010, Malaysia ranks as one of the world’s most religiously tolerant nations, ranking higher than Sweden and the United States.

Although religious intolerance is on the rise globally, cohesion in Malaysia is strengthened by variation in its population, in a balance struck between the government, its mass-minorities, and reality.

Diverse Demographics

The official state religion of Malaysia is Islam, whose followers make up approximately 60% of the population, dispersed across two landmasses separated by the South China Sea. Since the first millennium, what is now Malaysia has been settled in several major waves of people from other parts of Southeast Asia, looking to take advantage of its ideal maritime trading location. The result today is large minorities of Buddhists, Christians, and Hindus who comprise 20, 10, and 6 percent respectively of Malaysia’s 28 million citizens.

View Malaysia in a larger map

Patchwork Constitution

Although Malaysia’s state religion is (controversially) Islam, the constitution of the country is officially secular. Article 11 of the Malaysian constitution expresses the right for persons to practice their own religion, however makes clear that restrictions may be placed on how Muslims practice and propagate their own religion. Malaysia’s two federal territories and 11 states may also enact legislation in regards to its Muslim residents. For example, a Muslim may not marry another non-Muslim without the other person converting to the religion, however two non-Muslims may marry members of the opposite sex without such restrictions.

This a la carte legal system reveals the government’s bias toward Islam; in practice it’s much more difficult to covert out of, than into, the religion.

In some parts with large Christian minorities, Sunday is the official end of week, while in others, it’s (the traditional Islamic) Friday. There are two judicial systems – sharia law, determined under state law for Muslims, and secular for everyone else.

Balance Of The Minority

Walking around the streets of Kuala Lumpur last fall, after the release of an incendiary Mohammad film clip had ignited protests in several Muslim-majority nations, I asked residents: why there weren’t the same large-scale demonstrations in Malaysia? Generally, the consensus was there are too many other religious groups for any one to make too much noise. The government, although biased toward Islam, realizes the potential for serious conflict to arise if harmony is not maintained its 40% religious minority.

Further, Southeast Asian cultures have long had to adapt to the benefits and disadvantages of their location on Earth. Trade routes bring as many invaders as they do fortune, and historically tribal regions couldn’t repel incoming armies effectively. Rather, military forces and the traditions living within their soldiers, were absorbed. Research implies that inter-group contact may reduce prejudice and tolerance, like the best tastes of Malaysian cuisine, come from mixing, not separating your national ingredients.

Why Would You Want To Go To Yemen?

by Anil Polat | May 30, 2013 | Culture, Green, Health and Fitness, Security, Travel | 9

hameeda restaurant yemen

Yemen is a country whose association in the news with terrorism, kidnappings, and unrest following its 2010 revolution has reduced tourism and hotel bookings in some places by 60%. Before bothering to research how to go to Yemen or navigating the security situation there, you’re probably wondering why you should even consider a trip.

The Easy Answer Is Socotra

Although many news organizations, like the BBC photo on the right, omit the Socotra archipelago when displaying maps of Yemen, it’s a part of the Arab Peninsula’s only republic. Socotra’s main island (the other 3 are virtually inaccessible) should be one of the most visited places in the world. But due to its connection with the word “Yemen”, the government’s ineptitude at promoting tourism and habit of frequently changing entry requirements, only 4,000 tourists visited in all of 2011.

How To Get To Socotra – You can bypass mainland Yemen altogether by taking direct flights from Sharjah (near Dubai) in the United Arab Emirates. A visa is required for visiting Socotra but not a Yemeni travel permit. (The kind required to move around on the mainland.)
Low Crime, No Terrorism – Socotra has a population of approximately 50,000 people, but such a low crime rate that the only stationed police on the ~3,600 square km main island in the tiny capital city, Hadibo.
Why You Should Go To Socotra – See for yourself.

socotra hiking

Evolving over 250 million years, Socotra now has 700 plant, animal, and insect species that can be found nowhere else on Earth. According to the United Nations Development Programme, Socotra is one of the top 10 most important islands in the world in terms of biodiversity [PDF]. The entire archipelago is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and personally, the island’s landscape made me feel like I were looking at another planet, appreciating humankind’s fortunate that it’s right here on Earth.

One Of The World’s First ~~Skyscrappers~~ Sky-Scrapping Cities Is Here

Due to security-related travel restrictions that come and go on official whims however, you may not be able to get to the UNESCO Old Walled City of Shibam, located in eastern Yemen. Fortunately however, there’s another Shibam, in the safer, western part of Yemen. Approximately 20 kilometers away from the capital city Sana’a (whose Old City is a UNESCO World Heritage Site as well) its walls were also built toward the skies on the edge of cliffs, mostly to keep local invaders out.

Further mocking gravity is the “Rock Palace” in Wadi Dhar, which looks like it shouldn’t be able maintain its perched pose more than 100 meters above the surrounding town. Throughout Yemen’s Sarawat Mountain range, there are countless towns dating from the 16th century and earlier, all waiting for you to climb them. A warning though, keep your camera handy as everyone will want their photograph taken, allowing you to capture the faces of Yemen.

hayab yemen

Then there are anomalies like Hayab. Don’t get me wrong, it too has buildings and mosques built practically into the clouds above, but it’s a clean, organized town filled with Indian Ismaili Muslims on religious pilgrimage. To sum up a rather complicated historical narrative, basically two sects of Ismailis (Dawoodi Bohra and Alavi Bohra) fled to India from Yemen in the 11th century to escape persecution from other Islamic sects. What you find today is unlike most other Yemeni towns – streets not layered with garbage and litter due to regular trash service – and inhabitants whom are distinctly Indian, not Yemeni.

Hiking Burra Mountain And The Views Of Al Reyadi

Mainland Yemen is the kind of place where your driver and guide can nonchalantly ask if you want to stop the car for some photos, pull over to the side of the road, and reveal a view where you’re looking down at clouds floating over a valley 2,200 meters above sea level.

al reyadi cliffs

The views from the cliffs of Al Reyadi are so incredible they make you regret for a moment you weren’t born as a bird, Smaug, or on Krypton. Using those fine, sexy, evolved-for-walking legs of yours though you can climb up and through the fields of khat (also spelled “qat”), whose leaves are ubiquitously chewed all over Yemen in the afternoons for a mild stimulant effect. Take a rest and give the drug a try – you’ll need to commit about 4 hours of chewing to get mildly high. Don’t worry about setting aside the time, nothing other than khat will be on any Yemeni afternoon schedule.

yemeni peas In between the terraces of khat fields, notice the occasional coffee bushes, as you hike in the country where the beans were first brewed and turned into one of the world’s most popular beverages. Try qishr, the aromatic hot drink produced by brewing the husks of coffee berries and buy a bag near Suq al Kebab in Sana’a to take home. Visit At Hameeda, owned and staffed by women only, where they serve the best meal I had in Yemen. Notice local men eating around you – most of whom are still wearing the jambiya; a traditional knife worn on the front of a specialized belt – and recall the coral reef you snorkeled above in Socotra.

In terms of area, Yemen is bigger than Sweden, Spain, or Morocco, and despite the risks there are large portions of it that can be explored relatively safely. Hopefully now, you have more than a few good reasons to.

How Can I Best Manage My Photos If I’m Traveling With Only A Tablet?

by Anil Polat | May 28, 2013 | Pictures and Video, Tech | 29

traveling with ipad

A big part of the question, should I buy a tablet instead of a laptop for my travels, is whether or not an iPad, Windows Surface, Google Nexus or other device can hold and manage all of the pictures you’re bound to be snapping. As one commenter asks,

I’m on the fence about getting a computer for my travels. I love using my iPad but worried that it may not be able to handle all the pictures all I’ll be taking.

What’s the best way to manage pictures if you don’t have a computer?

For those of you you committed to putting your backpack on a diet and ditching a laptop altogether, there are ways to expand and optimize most tablets for some fairly serious shutterbugging.

Start With Storage

Although many manufacturers are releasing 128GB models of their tablets (with varying useable space) the majority of us are buying smaller 16 and 64 GB capacity devices. Considering a common digital picture can be anywhere from 3-15MB, that gives most users a theoretical maximum of holding roughly 5,800 pictures on a 64GB iPad – if you save nothing else. Either way, your primary battle is with storage, limiting how many pictures your tablet can store. Most Android and Windows tablets however have Secure Digital (SD) or microSD card slots, giving you the option of adding up to 256GB or 64GB; about 26,000-6,500 pictures respectively.

iPads don’t have expandable storage built-in, but external drives like the Kingston Wi-Drive (32-128 GB versions available), can give you added space with the bonus of being able to sync your pictures over a wireless connection.

Additionally, assuming you’re not using an iPad as your primary camera (like this guy), it’s possible to bypass your tablet altogether saving photos from your camera SD card directly to a digital picture storage device, like the 500GB Digital Foci Photo Safe II.

Send Your Pictures To The Cloud

Instead of using additional physical storage, you can automatically send your photos to free online storage when a solid wireless connection is available. There are a number of such services but two of the most common are Google+ Photos (15GB limit) and Flickr (1 terabyte). Using the free G+ (Android, iOS) or Flickr app (Android, iOS) you can automatically upload pictures you’ve taken from your tablet to private folders online.

wilmington north carolina boating

Both methods eliminate your need for any additional hardware but if you take hundreds of pictures or won’t have access to a strong wireless connection on your trip, this probably shouldn’t be your only backup method.

Don’t Shoot Pictures At Maximum, Absolute-Mega-Gigantic, Sizes

Finally, unless you’re going to be printing posters of all your travel pictures, you don’t need to shoot at the highest resolution your camera will allow. Even the Hubble Telescope only has a maximum resolution of 16.7 megapixels and unless you’re photographing the Crab Nebula, use this handy chart to figure out ideal the pixel-size for you. A good general resolution to use for most people is 2,590 x 1,920 pixels (~5 megapixels) and smaller photos means less to store, which is what to shoot for whether you’re using a laptop or tablet to manage your pictures on the road.

How To Travel To Yemen And Socotra Island

by Anil Polat | May 23, 2013 | Air, Car, Lodging, Money, Security, Travel | 5

socotra fisherman

Getting to mainland Yemen and Socotra Island, the Tim Burton inspired natural wonderland 380 kilometers of its southern coast, requires a few additional bureaucratic hops that aren’t too cumbersome if you know where to step. Both are surprisingly accessible and having spent 10 days in the country, I got to know a number of contacts that will make planning your trip to Yemen, Socotra, or both, a simple process.

Why Go To Yemen?

I’ll be covering this question in detail over the coming days but in short – Yemen has some of the most spectacular landscapes I’ve ever seen and Socotra Island is quite possibly the most exotic, yet untouched, place (that’s reasonably visitable) on the planet. When it comes to both mainland Yemen and Socotra, if you like natural beauty, trekking, or traveling in a country that has an unexplored feeling to it, these might be the next places to put on your travel list.

Although Socotra Island is a part of Yemen, getting there requires a slightly different process, so I’ll show you how to get to both separately.

How To Get To Mainland Yemen

Yemen offers visa-free travel to very few countries (Iraq, Syria, Jordan, and Turkey) so chances are you’ll need to apply for a visa. Most Yemeni embassies don’t handle visa requests directly – plus the requirements change often – making it essential you call or email them directly for updated instructions. Be sure to plan at least 4-6 weeks in advance and not have your passport during that time. (For most nationals, Yemen requires you to mail in your passport as part of the visa process.)

old city sanaa rainbow

Some of the standard Yemeni visa requirements are:

A passport valid for 6-12 months beyond stay

Completed application forms

Passport photos (confirm the exact dimensions)

Letter of invitation (a local tour operator can provide this, I recommend Eternal Yemen)

Doctor’s note confirming you’re free of communicable diseases

Some money (price varies)

Visas are typically only issued for travel to the capital Sana’a or the port city of Aden. You can, of course, save yourself a lot of the trouble by simply contacting a local tour operator like Eternal Yemen to take care of the entire visa process for you. They’ll also be able to get you the necessary travel permits to move around the country if you plan on exploring outside of Sana’a or Aden. (Permits must be shown at security checkpoints in between every governorate.) I have also heard that visa applications for United States citizens are especially likely to be rejected or have last minute problems, another reason to use a local tour operator who can circumvent any obstacles directly with the government.

Flights – A number of airlines service Sana’a and Aden, the two most common entry points into Yemen. Turkish Airlines, Emirates, and Yemenia all connect many major Middle East and European cities to Sana’a, with stopovers in Aden. Budget airlines also fly to mainland Yemen routinely from Sharjah (outside of Dubai) in the United Arab Emirates.
Overland – Land crossing from Saudi Arabia is not permitted for non-Yemeni nationals however buses run from Salalah, Oman to several cities in Yemen. Rides are over 10 hours and I’m told it’s not a comfortable journey.
Where To Stay – In the map below you can locate all of the places I’ve stayed at and recommend in Yemen. And, as most stays will include at least one night in Sana’a, I suggest you look no further than the Dawood Hotel.

View Yemen in a larger map

For more information on each hotel, including contact information, check out my Yemen travel information page.

Is Travel To Mainland Yemen Safe And Do I Need Any Special Preparations?

The first part of that question has a layered answer that I’ll elaborate upon in the coming weeks and the second part is a short no. However, the U.S. Centers For Disease Control (CDC) recommends malaria vaccinations if you’ll be traveling to areas in Yemen below 2,000 meters (~6,500 feet). Sana’a is high enough that it doesn’t meet that criteria and I never got (and never have actually) taken anti-malaria medication; but you may decide to proceed more cautiously.

Is Yemen Safe For Travelers? – I traveled to Yemen with my friend and fellow blogger Wandering Earl, who writes in detail about the security situation there.

Generally speaking, travel to the most dangerous and unstable parts of Yemen are strictly restricted. Elsewhere, the use of a local guide and driver both enhance your safety while opening up many of the smaller villages you’d likely miss if on your own. Once again, Eternal Yemen can organize custom trips giving you a local’s glimpse into Yemeni culture and heritage.

How To Visit Socotra Island

Air travel to Socotra from several Yemeni cities can be arranged on Felix Airways or Yemenia, which fly to Socotra 1-3 times a week for about $300, round-trip. If they don’t cancel the flights that is, which happens regularly, without warning, and at the last minute.

dragon blood trees socotra

Direct Flights To Socotra Outside Of Yemen – There aren’t many options except for Felix Airways flights to and from Sharjah, UAE. A good multi-city flight would be to book airfare to Dubai, connect to Sharjah using local ground transportation, and catch your Socotra plane from there.

Many travelers to Socotra simply skip mainland Yemen, save for a layover in Sana’a on the way to the island. Keep in mind any stops or layovers exiting in Sana’a generally require you have a travel permit. They can be obtained from the Tourist Police office in the Old City of Sana’a or a tour operator can get for you if you’re not planning on staying in the city.

Renting A Car On Socotra – It’s possible, but expensive at about $50 per day (not to mention fuel). Aside from the asphalt road that circles the outer-edge of the island, the interior is some serious off-roading on “road.” Imagine you driving in the video to the right.
Where To Stay – There are a few luxury hotels with rooms for $100 per night but I’d recommend saving your money and sleeping right along the beach at one of two camps: Abdulluh Edib Camp or Delisha Camp.

socotra beaches

There are over 300 endemic plant species plus nearly 200 species of insect and a similar number of bird species to be found on Socotra. Navigating them, even the most famous bottle and dragon blood trees isn’t easy initially and it helps to get in touch with a local guide for part of your trip. If you’re looking for one, I can recommend Saaber Aamer (email: [email protected] tel: 00967-771-969-576).

Why Go To Socotra? Because it’s sort of like evolution got bored with the rest of the planet and decided to drop acid while creating the four-island archipelago. This video says it all.

socotra volcanic formations

Socotra is a hard place not to be mesmerized by, so following up on my I Love Istanbul Tour, I’m planning on giving a Socotra Tour at the end of this year. If you’re at all interested in visiting Socotra for New Year’s, send me an email and Wandering Earl and I will add you to our list of participants!

Socotra And Yemen Mainland, Not So Hard To Reach Both

Outside of the visa process and obtaining the necessary travel permits, arranging a trip to Socotra and Yemen much like booking any other trip. Depending on where you plan on going and whether or not you’ll be using a local tour operator like Eternal Yemen, the amount of added legwork varies. But once you arrive and meet the faces of Yemen, wander through plateaus of countless dragon blood trees, or sit on the edge of Burra Mountain, you’re likely to find the added effort well worth the time.

The Passion And People Who Brought Me To The Best City To Visit In 2012: Sarajevo

by Anil Polat | May 21, 2013 | Contests, Culture, Money, Travel | 0

sarajevo sign

My travels are usually well ahead of my writing, which lags behind a queue of new trips and past stories to be told. Hence why I’m so late in writing about the 2012 Best City To Visit Travel Tournament winner, Sarajevo. A contest won by an incredibly energetic and enthusiastic group of Balkan supporters who reflect how connected a community the inhabitants of Bosnia and Herzegovina’s capital form.

There is no correlation between my tardiness and how I felt about Sarajevo, where I was welcomed by many I met – not as a visiting traveler – but rather someone returning to a home he didn’t know he had. Tourism to Sarajevo and the rest of Bosnia and Herzegovina has increased by 13% [PDF] since 2010, yet it still retains many advantages for independent and budget travelers.

War Torn No Longer

The streets of Sarajevo still bear the marks of the 1992-1995 Bosnian War, literally, as you can see in the picture to the right, where residents have painted the cracks left by grenade explosions red. There were many more of these memorials in asphalt throughout the Sarajevo, which endured the longest siege of a capital city since World War II: from April 5, 1992 until February 29, 1996. Like the pavement however, the city hasn’t forgotten the war that changed Sarajevo’s demographics drastically, reducing ethnic diversity according to some estimates by 30%.

The Bosnian War created a lost generation of children in Sarajevo, who missed an opportunity for education, as sniper fire and regular bombardment of the city made any formal schooling impossible. One of the few ways food, medical supplies, and weapons were smuggled into the city during the siege was through the Sarajevo Tunnel. Constructed by the Bosnian Army covertly, it connected Sarajevo to just outside the city’s airport, controlled by the United Nations. You can get a fascinating look inside the tunnel, parts of which are still intact, on the HYH City Tour. In addition to the Sarajevo Tunnel, my guide took us to the abandoned bobsled tube from the 1984 Olympics and sniper alley – his personal stories from living through the siege alone were worth the 21 Euro price.

sarajevo tunel museum

The divisions of the war have brought modern Sarajevo together today as it can confidently concentrate on the future – a hint of which you can see in its hip present. Students from the over 5 universities in Sarajevo hang out in sleek cafes like Delikatesna Radnja after classes and you’ll find no shortage of bars along the blocks of the Miljacka River on weekend nights.

Advantages Of Independence For Independent Travelers

With the Bosnian War in the rear view mirror (it’s completely safe in case you were wondering), travelers who head to Sarajevo have much to look forward to. First of all, it’s inexpensive. Businessweek ranks it the 19th cheapest city for expensive living, whether you’re looking for a fancy two-bedroom apartment for $699 a month, or staying a few nights in a private room for 20 Euro a day at the comfortable Hostel City Center.

bosnia burek

All of the city’s main sights are easily walkable and you can hike from hills of the Alifakovac neighborhood’s centuries-old cemetery, walk across the Eiffel Bridge (a smaller version of Gustave’s style on the Douro), and stand at the spot where Archduke Franz Ferdinand was assassinated all in the same afternoon.

In the evening recuperate lost calories with the pastry burek or have a complete meal of cevapi (kebab) with duvec (vegetable stew) at an affordable spot like Sedef. Afterwards at the warmly lit Bascarsija Square drink from the Sebilj Fountain, which is said to ensure one’s return to Sarajevo – although in my opinion a visit to the city has the same effect.

sebilj fountain sarajevo

Warmest Welcome I Can Remember

The Best City To Visit Travel Tournament really took off in Sarajevo last year and everyone I came across seemed to have voted or heard about it. So many Bosnians took time out of their day to come meet me as I was traveling around the city to have a drink or just say hi – thanking me for highlighting the city through the contest. But to be honest, it’s all of the Bosnians who deserve my thanks for welcoming me to a city I could easily see myself living in, and treating me like I have been, for a lifetime.

About Anil Polat

Hi, I'm Anil. foXnoMad is where I combine travel and tech to help you travel smarter. I'm on a journey to every country in the world and you're invited to join the adventure! Read More